The Insiders' Guide to the Wirral peninsula (2024)

With 50 miles of beautiful walks and 22 miles of breathtaking coastline, moderate climate, higher-than-average sunshine and lower-than-average rainfall, Wirral is just the place for those who love the great outdoors. But there’s plenty under cover too, with an array of independent businesses, cultural venues and places to eat and drink.

The beach towns surround a heart of rural beauty – the middle strip of the peninsula is a green oasis of farmland, woods, hills and walks, with views over to the urban beauty of Liverpool and across to the rugged Welsh hills.

There’s something special here – a strong sense of community, photogenic views, history and towns with buzz and distinct identities.

New Brighton has what tourists want in buckets (and spades): a magnificent landscape, history, world-class culture, friendly people and a bustling food and drink scene. And then, of course, there’s that magnificent seafront.

The Insiders' Guide to the Wirral peninsula (1)Cathy Roberts, owner of Literally bookshop and community hub in New Brighton. ‘We've got the longest promenade in the UK,’ says Cathy Roberts, who runs Literally bookshop, as well as juggling roles as a storyteller, writer and heritage expert for the seafront’s New Palace and Adventureland.

‘The prom was built as a philanthropic exercise. There was a government grant from 1928 for unemployed men, to keep them in work and therefore feed families. They started on a two-year project and just kept going. Six years later, we had the longest prom.

‘It’s a fabulous walk, and even if there's no money in your pocket, you can have a great time in New Brighton. Steve Rotheram (Mayor of Liverpool) told us when he was elected his favourite place in the Liverpool City region is New Brighton because he came here with his brothers and sisters. They'd have a flask of cold tea and some butties on the beach, and they’d have a whale of a time.’

Literally is as much a community hub as a shop, welcoming in friends old and new to see a huge collection of vintage books and annuals, recalling a bygone age.

The Insiders' Guide to the Wirral peninsula (2)New Brighton street art. Photo by Jade Wright ‘We're in our 12th year and going strong,’ says Cathy. ‘‘We have our antiquarian books, produced by Chapman Hall when Dickens was still alive, then there’s the old maps, prints, tonnes of ephemera, and a big local history section.

‘My favourites are the 300 Ladybird books. Everybody pounces on them because you never forget what you read in a Ladybird book. There’s lots of Enid Blyton too, so we get lots of people in for Mallory Towers and the Famous Five.

‘If we sell a book, then great, but I also think there’s a lot to be said for just opening the doors for somewhere to meet and talk,’ says Cathy.

As well as the traditional fairground and arcade, with its slogan of ‘fun at a fair price’ New Brighton has a thriving independent sector, alongside Seabank Road and the train station.

‘We’ve got lots of quirky, independent shops like us along Seabank Road,’ says Cathy. ‘It's just a little bit out of the way – you have to know where it is – but it’s worth a trip, with little crystal shops, the second-hand furniture shop, the vintage shops...

‘Further down, we’ve got the best kept secret, which is Bistro 115, on the corner of Wellington Road. They serve fantastic food – a mix of Mediterranean and traditional English but with a twist.

‘On our row, we've also got SUP, which is a great place – it stands for shop, unwind and print. They do graphic design and sell lots of local artwork, craft beers, and some really good wine and excellent cakes. Sea Shanty, which is next-door-but-one, is a great café, with live music in the afternoons on a Friday. They have chess club on Thursdays and again, beautiful, freshly prepared cakes and great coffee. And in between all of them, we've got the barbers.

‘When we opened, there was only us, and the barber was part-time. Now we've got this lovely, welcoming little terrace for people getting off the train. And that's what I love about New Brighton because it keeps evolving.’

The Insiders' Guide to the Wirral peninsula (3)Kristy Macleod, right, co-hosts hit podcast This is Awkward, with friend and long-time collaborator Lyanne Nicholl, left. Photo: Kristy Macleod Kristy Macleod co-hosts hit podcast This is Awkward (instagram.com/thisisawkwardpodcast), with friend and long-time collaborator Lyanne Nicholl, from Malpas. Kristy grew up in New Brighton, before moving to London when she was 19. Now after 19 years in the capital, she’s come home, with her husband Dom and their two children.

‘When we came back, my mum and my sister told us everything is within 20 minutes on the Wirral and I thought they were exaggerating, but they were right. Whether that's beautiful spaces, lovely independent shops or restaurants, it’s all there. You're super close to some amazing networks.

‘There’s Liverpool and Manchester on the doorstep, you can get to London easily. But there’s so much here that we rarely need to travel far. When I lived in London, it used to take me half an hour just to get out of second gear.’

The podcast looks at how to tackle life's trickiest conversations, such as politics, menopause, money problems...

‘In each episode, we interview an expert in their field – child psychologists, a GP, authors, politicians – who can shed light on ways to approach these conversations when they come up,’ she says.

‘We want people to come away, firstly, feeling they're not alone in struggling with some of these topics, and maybe give them a little crib sheet of tips and tricks to take away they can apply in the future.’

The Insiders' Guide to the Wirral peninsula (4)Beautiful Hoylake beach. Photo by Jade Wright One of the things that’s inspired Kristy since she moved back is the friendliness she's felt. ‘When we got off the train in Hoylake, Dom and I just got that feeling. It’s a very welcoming place, and you’ve got so many great people in a very small area. It felt like coming home.

'Having lots of open space makes such a difference to our kids, seeing how free and relaxed they are just bombing off, whether it was on the beach or a park. Vale Park is one of my favourite places.

‘You can’t beat Cubbins Green (near West Kirby) for a swim in the sea, or New Brighton for a family day with the most amazing ice cream in the cafe in Vale Park.

‘‘If you want to get out and about, whether it's for a bike ride or a walk, Thurstaston is brilliant, and Red Rocks (between Hoylake and West Kirby) is incredible. People pay thousands of pounds to find a beach like this abroad, and we've got it within walking distance.

‘I think Hoylake sunsets are one of the best things ever, and then you have Birkenhead Park, which is gorgeous.'

The Insiders' Guide to the Wirral peninsula (5)Paula Brown, at home in Barnston, Heswall. Photo: Paula BrownPaula Brown moved to Wirral for love – both for the area and for her proud Wirralian husband.

‘I fell in love when I met Simon, at university back in 1992,’ she says. ‘He hailed from Wirral and from the first moment I saw the wild shores of Thurstaston, I knew I couldn’t live anywhere else.’

Paula runs boutique PR and marketing agency, Coast Ideas, from her home in Barnston, near Heswall. Specialising in leisure and construction, she has been based on the peninsular for almost 30 years.

‘There is so much I love about Wirral, it’s hard to know where to start,’ she says. ‘I’ve always loved its unique position, nestled in between the vibrant city of Liverpool (Cream, Garlands and the dance scene was an early pull when we were students) and the beautiful city of Chester, which became an important part of my work life when I started working for the company behind Hickory’s Smokehouse, Barlounge and Upstairs at the Grill almost 15 years ago. They are still my longest-standing clients and an amazing bunch of people to work with.

‘The mighty Wirral Way has always played a big part in our lives, and we have walked, peddled and picnicked along most of it. We are so fortunate to have the most amazing coast and countryside on our doorstep – nothing quite beats an autumn sunset overlooking the River Dee.’

Paula is also a regular visitor at Ness Gardens, the University of Liverpool’s hidden gem botanical gardens, with views over the Dee Estuary.

‘When our daughters were small, we would join our band of equally hungover friends (the Cream days were long behind us now) for a restorative walk amongst the snowdrops, taking in the views and letting the kids run off steam,’ she says. ‘It was a tradition that lasted many years and now, as some of us have become grandparents (our little Frankie was born in 2023), it might be something we should think about restarting with the new generation.’

Paula is now working with another hidden gem in the peninsula – LOST Wirral (lostwirral.co.uk)– a converted barn in Claremont Courtyard.

‘As the name suggests, it’s a bit under the radar but the feedback from guests has been amazing and it’s been wonderful to see the dining scene on Wirral elevated even further,’ she says. ‘It hosts wonderful dining experiences with a host of renowned chefs and is also available to hire for weddings and events.’

The Insiders' Guide to the Wirral peninsula (6)Al fresco drinks at the Black Toad in Hoylake. Photo by Jade Wright

THE WIRRAL WAY TO...

A COOL NIGHT OUT

Victoria Road, New Brighton

Colourful murals adorn the buildings in Britain’s biggest street art gallery. ’We have one of the largest street art galleries in the country, and it’s increasing as we speak,’ says Cathy Roberts. ‘Then on Victoria Road, you’ve got some trendy bars. Jayne Casey has just opened her District House there, and that looks incredible. ‘We’ve also got Social 114, which is another lovely little bistro. Then there’s Lula’s bar on the corner of Victoria Road. It has brilliant jazz nights, and there’s a deli. There’s a brilliant atmosphere.’

DINNER WITH FRIENDS

Piña Loca, Bromborough

Kristy MacLeod says: ‘Piña Loca is a fantastic Mexican that transports you to somewhere else. It’s a great place to have fun with friends.’

DATE NIGHT

Tapas Kitchen, West Kirby

‘This place makes me feel like I’m on holiday,’ says Kristy. ‘It’s perfect whether it’s for family or a date night or a girly catch-up. I’ve taken my daughter there for lunch just the two of us, and she loves it. It does great vegan choices as well as veggie options.’

FAMILY DINNER

Magic Spices, New Brighton

‘This is an old favourite from when I was growing up,’ says Kristy. ‘The food is glorious. It’s very family-friendly – the owner will do magic tricks for the kids; they are absolutely transfixed.’

FRIDAY NIGHT DRINKS

The Black Toad, Hoylake

‘An Aladdin’s cave of wonderful, delicious, tasty beers, with great pub snacks,’ says Kristy. ‘Black Toad has an emporium where you can pick and mix beautiful beers and ciders and whatever tickles your fancy. The couple who run it are lovely, too.’

A LAZY SATURDAY AFTERNOON

The White Lion, West Kirby

‘Heading up the hill in West Kirby, you have The White Lion,’ says Kristy. ‘From the outside, it looks like some kind of old coaching inn, which hasn’t changed for hundreds of years. But inside, it’s welcoming, with an eclectic clientele, and a nice atmosphere. ‘They sometimes have food from Seafood Shack, which is another amazing West Kirby independent. We are spoilt for choice.’

SUNDAY LUNCH

The Fox & Hounds, Barnston

‘Pubs have also been a bit of a feature for us in Wirral, and we are fortunate to have one of the best here in Barnston,’ says Paula Brown. ‘I’ve seen the Fox & Hounds change hands a few times, but the current custodian, the independent Stange and Co, has managed to retain the magical mix of friendly local and quality food destination without losing any of its original charm. There is nowhere I would rather be on a miserable winter’s day than cuddled up by the open fire with a glass of red, even if the walk back down Storeton Lane might be a bit bracing.’

The Insiders' Guide to the Wirral peninsula (2024)
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